The GPS says I'm precisely four thousand kilometers from home at 53°04'N and the sign says I'm at Pyramid Mount on the mighty Fraser River. My eyes are burning from driving through thick forest fire smoke all day. Some people were wearing wet hankies over their noses; visibility was rarely more than a hundred feet.

That night I stayed at the Connaught Inn in Prince George and went out with a bunch of BMW-driving doctors from California (on their way to Alaska) who took me to a surprisingly debauched stripper bar. It was surprising largely because it was Prince George.

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